The Snake Guru
02-14-2008, 02:39 AM
Blue Beauty Rat Snake Care
Common Names: Vietnamese Blue Beauties, Blue Beauties
Scientific Name: Orthriophis taeniurus ssp
Distribution: Blue Beauties are colubrids native to the Vietnam-Thailand-Burma areas of Southeast Asia, from heavy forests to cultivated fields and mountainous areas.
Size: Blue beauties are one of the largest species of ratsnakes, reaching lengths of 7-8ft. They can reach up to 11ft but that is rare. They are colubrids so even though they are long, they are slender snakes.
Lifespan: Blue beauties can live anywhere between 15-30 years.
Temperment/Handling: Blue beauties are Asian ratsnakes which have a bad rap for being biters. The blue beauty however isn't generally known for being as aggressive as other beauty snakes. If you get a captive bred baby, that is your best bet for taming one down. There are a lot of wild caught ones for sale but captive bred ones are becoming more common. I would not recommend getting a blue beauty with the thought it will be a great snake for handling. They can be tamed down but not always and they still are likely to remain nervous as adults.
Housing: Blue beauties are active snakes and need a good size enclosure. Babies are fine in 10-20 aquarium with secure cover. Rubbermaids and custom cages work to, just make sure the cage is secure because like most snakes, they are escape artists. Adults can be housed in 55 gallon tank with secure cover or rubbermaid of equal or larger size. They are active so the more room the better. The cage should have lots of cover, hides, and even some branches to climb on. A water dish with fresh water needs to be available at all times.
Substrate: Their are several things that will work for blue beauties, I would recommend newspaper,aspen shavings, or cypress mulch. Stay away from any pine or ceder bedding, they are deadly to herps. If using a loose substrate, especially one that contains large pieces like mulch, be sure to feed the snake in a separate container,put newspaper down over the substrate, or make sure to monitor the feed closely to make sure the snake doesn't digest the substrate.
Temps/Hummidity: Blue beauties do not need high temps like many other herp species, 80-85 degrees is fine for blue beauties. The humidity isn't much of a concern, the only time its important is during a shed. Its best to have a water dish that is big enough for the snake to soak in. If you have any problems with shedding, make a humid hide. They are very simple to make, just take a plastic rubbermaid or other plastic container large enough for the snake to get in, cut a hole in the side and put moist paper towels or sphagnum moss. Misting the cage before a shed can also help.
Heating: Blue beauties do not require UVB or any other special lighting. I recommend under tank heaters, but nocturnal bulbs or regular house hold bulbs will work for additional heat. It is best to place the under tank heater and/or lights on one side of the cage, the warm side were their should be a hide. The cool side should have no heat and thats generally the best place to put the water dish, make sure to add a hide on cool side also. This way you will create a thermal gradient and will allow the snake to choose where its comfortable, rather then the whole tank at one temp.
Feeding: Blue beauties are constrictors and in captivity are fed rodents. If you get a captive bred baby, feeding shouldn't be a problem, CB blue beauties should take frozen/thawed rodents no problems. If you do get a wild caught or even a LTC(Long term Captive), make sure its eating good before buying it, wild caught ones may not eat as well, they may only take live rather then frozen/thawed rodents. Baby blue beauties should start out on pinkie mice and move up in size from their as the snake grows. Adults will eat rats, the size of rat depends on the size of your blue beauty, 6-7ft( the average adult size) should eat small to medium rats. Feed your snake every 7-10 days. Its important not to handle or bother your snake for at least 48 hours after eating. Any stress can cause your snake to throw up its meal which isn't good.
Rating: Blue beauties are definitely not for beginners do to their larger size and dispositions. If you have kept a few snakes and are looking to get something that you may not be able to handle but as more of display snake then a blue beauty may be for you.
Conclusion: Blue beauties are gorgeous snakes that have gotten a bad rap which has caused them to be over looked by many herp keepers. I feel thats a shame because their name describes them perfect, they are beauties and rewarding species to keep. Blue beauties definitely are not for beginners, but if you have kept a few other snakes and want something different then the most popular herps, well blue beauties may be for you.
Submitted by:
Jason Decker
"ReptileMan27"
Common Names: Vietnamese Blue Beauties, Blue Beauties
Scientific Name: Orthriophis taeniurus ssp
Distribution: Blue Beauties are colubrids native to the Vietnam-Thailand-Burma areas of Southeast Asia, from heavy forests to cultivated fields and mountainous areas.
Size: Blue beauties are one of the largest species of ratsnakes, reaching lengths of 7-8ft. They can reach up to 11ft but that is rare. They are colubrids so even though they are long, they are slender snakes.
Lifespan: Blue beauties can live anywhere between 15-30 years.
Temperment/Handling: Blue beauties are Asian ratsnakes which have a bad rap for being biters. The blue beauty however isn't generally known for being as aggressive as other beauty snakes. If you get a captive bred baby, that is your best bet for taming one down. There are a lot of wild caught ones for sale but captive bred ones are becoming more common. I would not recommend getting a blue beauty with the thought it will be a great snake for handling. They can be tamed down but not always and they still are likely to remain nervous as adults.
Housing: Blue beauties are active snakes and need a good size enclosure. Babies are fine in 10-20 aquarium with secure cover. Rubbermaids and custom cages work to, just make sure the cage is secure because like most snakes, they are escape artists. Adults can be housed in 55 gallon tank with secure cover or rubbermaid of equal or larger size. They are active so the more room the better. The cage should have lots of cover, hides, and even some branches to climb on. A water dish with fresh water needs to be available at all times.
Substrate: Their are several things that will work for blue beauties, I would recommend newspaper,aspen shavings, or cypress mulch. Stay away from any pine or ceder bedding, they are deadly to herps. If using a loose substrate, especially one that contains large pieces like mulch, be sure to feed the snake in a separate container,put newspaper down over the substrate, or make sure to monitor the feed closely to make sure the snake doesn't digest the substrate.
Temps/Hummidity: Blue beauties do not need high temps like many other herp species, 80-85 degrees is fine for blue beauties. The humidity isn't much of a concern, the only time its important is during a shed. Its best to have a water dish that is big enough for the snake to soak in. If you have any problems with shedding, make a humid hide. They are very simple to make, just take a plastic rubbermaid or other plastic container large enough for the snake to get in, cut a hole in the side and put moist paper towels or sphagnum moss. Misting the cage before a shed can also help.
Heating: Blue beauties do not require UVB or any other special lighting. I recommend under tank heaters, but nocturnal bulbs or regular house hold bulbs will work for additional heat. It is best to place the under tank heater and/or lights on one side of the cage, the warm side were their should be a hide. The cool side should have no heat and thats generally the best place to put the water dish, make sure to add a hide on cool side also. This way you will create a thermal gradient and will allow the snake to choose where its comfortable, rather then the whole tank at one temp.
Feeding: Blue beauties are constrictors and in captivity are fed rodents. If you get a captive bred baby, feeding shouldn't be a problem, CB blue beauties should take frozen/thawed rodents no problems. If you do get a wild caught or even a LTC(Long term Captive), make sure its eating good before buying it, wild caught ones may not eat as well, they may only take live rather then frozen/thawed rodents. Baby blue beauties should start out on pinkie mice and move up in size from their as the snake grows. Adults will eat rats, the size of rat depends on the size of your blue beauty, 6-7ft( the average adult size) should eat small to medium rats. Feed your snake every 7-10 days. Its important not to handle or bother your snake for at least 48 hours after eating. Any stress can cause your snake to throw up its meal which isn't good.
Rating: Blue beauties are definitely not for beginners do to their larger size and dispositions. If you have kept a few snakes and are looking to get something that you may not be able to handle but as more of display snake then a blue beauty may be for you.
Conclusion: Blue beauties are gorgeous snakes that have gotten a bad rap which has caused them to be over looked by many herp keepers. I feel thats a shame because their name describes them perfect, they are beauties and rewarding species to keep. Blue beauties definitely are not for beginners, but if you have kept a few other snakes and want something different then the most popular herps, well blue beauties may be for you.
Submitted by:
Jason Decker
"ReptileMan27"