The Snake Guru
02-14-2008, 03:00 AM
Green Tree Python, MORELIA VIRIDIS
Quick FAQs
SIZE: 63-71 INCHES
DIFFICULTY LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE
TEMPS/HUMIDITY: 88 HIGH, 75-82 AMBIENT / 80-90%
The Green Tree Pythons (GTPs) range from the Cape York Peninsula of Australia north through New Guinea and the surrounding islands. GTPs are a slender, long-bodied arboreal snake. As neonates, they are born either red or yellow and go through a color change, becoming varying shades of green as adults. Sometimes red-borne neonates will turn yellow before changing to green. Some females will turn bluish while gravid. Chondro have varying spots of yellow, blue and/or white. Some GTPs may be mostly or all yellow.
Hatchlings are very delicate averaging 8-12 inches in length. Sex is indeterminable until they are 1-2 years of age. Their fragile spinal cords can be damaged very easily by "popping" or probing them to determine sex. Many times, as they age, those that have been sexed too early will have spinal kinking. In most cases, they are still able to function and breed, but this is very risky and should not be attempted. If anyone tries to sell you a sexed baby, I would run far, far away! =) A mature GTP ranges from 63-71 inches (5-6 feet). The average life span is unknown at this time. There are reports of wild caught specimens that have lived over 20 years.
GTPs should be housed in an enclosure that offers one square foot of space per foot of snake, as a minimum. Always choosing height over foot space. Your cage can be as elaborate or simple as you like. Your enclosure can be a custom built cage or any of the widely available commercial cages (Visions, Cheapcages.com, Boaphile, etc). Your enclosure must allow for proper thermal gradient. You should provide perches (bamboo, PVC pipe, wooden dowels, hangers) at different levels in the enclosure so they can properly thermo regulate. You can also choose to use plants (live or real) for a more natural appeal, and this may also make your snake feel more secure.
Proper heat can be optained by an under tank heater, heat cable, heat tape, or overhead bulb. Make sure your snake cannot come into direct contact with the heat source, as they may get burns. Also, NEVER NEVER NEVER use a heat rock! EVER! Your reptile can get very serious burns from this, not to mention it is not an effective means to heat your enclosure, as it only heats around the rock, one-two inches. The only safe heat rock is one with the cord cut off!
Substrate is variable. What works well for one person, may not for another. Some options are newspaper, craft paper, paper towels, aspen chips or shavings, or cypress mulch. You should NEVER keep your reptile on pine or cedar chips/shavings.
You should feed your snake an appropriately sized rodent weekly. We recommend switching them to rats as soon as they are big enough, moving up in size as your snake grows. Generally speaking, We do not advise that you feed your snake live. Never leave a live rodent with a snake unattended.
Breeding size is typically reached when the animal is 3 years of age. Breeding is year round in the wild, but the captive breeding season ranges from November through March. Feeding should be stopped at this time and a cooling period should be started. Your animals should be in top condition before any breeding is attempted. Breeding can be "suggested" by reducing the photo period to 8-10 hours of daytime and cooling the overnight temperatures. You should introduce the female into the male's cage. Females typically shed 14-20 days post-ovulation and eggs are generally laid 15-21 days following the shed. The average clutch size ranges from 10 to 30 eggs. With an incubation temperature of 88-90 degrees, the eggs should hatch in about 49-56 days.
*This is by no means a complete caresheet, just an informational article. Please do your research before purchasing your animal!
Quick FAQs
SIZE: 63-71 INCHES
DIFFICULTY LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE
TEMPS/HUMIDITY: 88 HIGH, 75-82 AMBIENT / 80-90%
The Green Tree Pythons (GTPs) range from the Cape York Peninsula of Australia north through New Guinea and the surrounding islands. GTPs are a slender, long-bodied arboreal snake. As neonates, they are born either red or yellow and go through a color change, becoming varying shades of green as adults. Sometimes red-borne neonates will turn yellow before changing to green. Some females will turn bluish while gravid. Chondro have varying spots of yellow, blue and/or white. Some GTPs may be mostly or all yellow.
Hatchlings are very delicate averaging 8-12 inches in length. Sex is indeterminable until they are 1-2 years of age. Their fragile spinal cords can be damaged very easily by "popping" or probing them to determine sex. Many times, as they age, those that have been sexed too early will have spinal kinking. In most cases, they are still able to function and breed, but this is very risky and should not be attempted. If anyone tries to sell you a sexed baby, I would run far, far away! =) A mature GTP ranges from 63-71 inches (5-6 feet). The average life span is unknown at this time. There are reports of wild caught specimens that have lived over 20 years.
GTPs should be housed in an enclosure that offers one square foot of space per foot of snake, as a minimum. Always choosing height over foot space. Your cage can be as elaborate or simple as you like. Your enclosure can be a custom built cage or any of the widely available commercial cages (Visions, Cheapcages.com, Boaphile, etc). Your enclosure must allow for proper thermal gradient. You should provide perches (bamboo, PVC pipe, wooden dowels, hangers) at different levels in the enclosure so they can properly thermo regulate. You can also choose to use plants (live or real) for a more natural appeal, and this may also make your snake feel more secure.
Proper heat can be optained by an under tank heater, heat cable, heat tape, or overhead bulb. Make sure your snake cannot come into direct contact with the heat source, as they may get burns. Also, NEVER NEVER NEVER use a heat rock! EVER! Your reptile can get very serious burns from this, not to mention it is not an effective means to heat your enclosure, as it only heats around the rock, one-two inches. The only safe heat rock is one with the cord cut off!
Substrate is variable. What works well for one person, may not for another. Some options are newspaper, craft paper, paper towels, aspen chips or shavings, or cypress mulch. You should NEVER keep your reptile on pine or cedar chips/shavings.
You should feed your snake an appropriately sized rodent weekly. We recommend switching them to rats as soon as they are big enough, moving up in size as your snake grows. Generally speaking, We do not advise that you feed your snake live. Never leave a live rodent with a snake unattended.
Breeding size is typically reached when the animal is 3 years of age. Breeding is year round in the wild, but the captive breeding season ranges from November through March. Feeding should be stopped at this time and a cooling period should be started. Your animals should be in top condition before any breeding is attempted. Breeding can be "suggested" by reducing the photo period to 8-10 hours of daytime and cooling the overnight temperatures. You should introduce the female into the male's cage. Females typically shed 14-20 days post-ovulation and eggs are generally laid 15-21 days following the shed. The average clutch size ranges from 10 to 30 eggs. With an incubation temperature of 88-90 degrees, the eggs should hatch in about 49-56 days.
*This is by no means a complete caresheet, just an informational article. Please do your research before purchasing your animal!