Breeding Large Constrictors

[Reaper1187]

This is my first year breeding large constrictors(retics and burms) and was just wondering if they need a cool down period like corns and kings. And if so how long do i need to wait before i put them down so they do not get stomach rot. Ive heard that you do need to cool them and ive heard that you dont. Thanks in advance for any information

[herpivore]

I, too, have yet to experience breeding season with my burms.

I've heard from most sources that some sort of cooling/lessening of light period is conducive to breeding.

It's not necessary, and actually is detrimental, to lower the ambient/cool side temps past 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

My only snake breeding knowledge so far has been gained by breeding my two pairs of corn snakes this past spring. As far as that goes, I didn't do much - just waited 'til they were in the mood, then placed the male(s) with the female(s) for a several minute period (somewhat supervised), and then separated them again. Later on, I removed the eggs, placing them in a homemade incubator to ripen for roughly two months, and now I have 33 baby corns to feed/33 small cages to clean! :) :)

So, take that with a grain or two of salt - I know pythons and Burmese in particular will have differences from corn snakes!

[Reaper1187]

yeah, ive bred corns and kings the past couple of years and im starting to get out of them and into large constrictors. ive practically sold off all my stock except for two cal kings that im trying to sell now. but i figure that pythons would have some differences that i would need to have knowledge of.

[redtails]

I know bebo likes doing a cooling period with his burms, but also Jay Vella & Patrick from prehistoric pets breed their retics all year long without one...

[herpivore]

That I'm aware of (and believe me, I've been researching), the main difference is the cooling temp minimum. Otherwise, snakes seem to need similar conditions to stimulate breeding interest.
And sometimes, of course, they go at it without any encouragement at all! :)

[bebo]

Retics are way too often thought of as'just another snake' when it comes to breeding. I've only bred the superdwarfs myself. but have worked with and been around Reed and all his retics. Believe me, there are so many things that makes them different from burms and other species. Though there are instances where they are similar. Many times luck is looked upon as fact with retics by some,lol.

I believe it is better to have some form of a cool down period with burms. Sometimes with certain pairs its not necessary. So we instityte the cooling in hopes of a better chance at successful breeidng.

From my own experience and others that have used the same methods, it is not necessary to have a drastic cool down period. As Andrew mentinoed, 80 degrees is my recommended minimum...PERIOD. :)

Just make sure it is a slow drop in temps, even only using a mild drop if done too quickly can have ill effects. I drop one degree per week until my setpoints for minimum are reached. Then the slight warm up. this time period needs to be at least over a 6 week period. That gives the pairs ample tme to realize a change has occured in their environment. Light cycles can help, though some dont use one; I do myself.

:cool:

[Sanctuary]

We also follow the 6 week cycle ( bebo's idea works ) but we don't use a light cycling and we do institute a humidity change. In the wild, burmese coincide the breeding season with the onset of a small wet season and I feel that a slight misting after the pair is up to optimal tems helps some.


http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f207/SnakeSanctuary/AB.combanner.jpg