The Snake Guru
10-18-2007, 04:16 AM
Ball Pythons 101:
One of the 1st exotic species I started out with so many years ago. Ball pythons in general are a small and fairly easily kept species. One of the plusses of this species is the fact they stay relatively small averaging between the 4 to 6 foot range (Females being the larger of the 2 in general).
Due to their small size this species is pretty easy to house. An enclosure of 36”x18”x18” would be what I consider a minimum size required for an adult ball python. They are a largely terrestrial species so floor surface area is of greater importance than enclosure height. Hatchlings and Yearlings are easily housed in enclosures the size or a 10 or 20 long aquarium.
Temperatures and Humidity:
Especially when young this species will require an ambient cage temperature in the mid 80s I usually shoot for 82 to 84 degrees F. They also require a basking area of 90 degrees not to exceed 95 degrees F. The basking area can be accomplished by and overhead heat source outfitted with an infrared bulb, or ceramic heat emitter, or by a UTH (Under Tank Heat-pad). Other heat sources are also available these are just some of the more common ones. The key is the range of heat needed, as long as you hit the already mentioned temps. It doesn’t matter how you do it (though I would stay away from daylight incandescent bulbs).
Humidity: Average humidity for this species is around 50 to 60% for normal everyday levels. Increased humidity during the shedding cycle of 70% to 80% is acceptable and sometimes needed in order to get them to shed off in one piece. I humidity box can be provided for persistent poor shedders, this can be as simple as a Tupperware container filled with damp moss or paper towels with hole cut in the side or top. Zoo Med does make a ready made humidity hide hut.
Feeding:
Ball Pythons can be picky eaters, a lot of which it depends a lot on the origin of the snake. Captive Bred (C.B) Balls usually present few issues with feeding, were as Imports (W.C) or Bush Babies and even Farm Hatched Imports can be extremely difficult to keep on a regular feeding schedule (note: I did say “can be” a lot of times there aren’t problems getting those to eat either). Below are some tricks to getting Ball Pythons feeding.
Tease Feeding: Using a Frozen Thawed (F/T) prey item warm slightly in hot water (place the mouse in a plastic bag, then float the bag in the water for a couple minuets.) Use a long tweezers or hemostats to jiggle the prey item in front of the python as if it were alive. Normally you will see what looks like some head bobbing from side to side, this is the python lining up a bead on the prey item before the strike. Balls sense prey by heat signature (the reason for warming the prey item). This method is usually very effective in getting Balls to eat.
In a bag: Placing the python in a bag or dark container overnight with the prey item. This can be used with F/T prey (preferred) or Live prey HOWEVER if using live prey make sure they are only pinky rats or hopper mice with NO teeth! If you use a rodent with teeth it is a good chance you check on your snake in the morning and find it has been chewed up.
Live Prey: Sometimes Ball Pythons will only take live prey, not only that but they may be prey specific only eating Mice or Rats or Gerbils or Hamsters. I had a Ball once that would only eat live Gerbils for the whole 9+ years I had him, no amount of scenting on dead or live prey changed his mind….if it wasn’t a live gerbil it wasn’t food. Gerbils are often a good means to end with balls they do seem to have a taste for them, however once “on” them they can be difficult to get switched over to anything else.
*Prey items should be no larger than the thickest part of the snakes body* These snakes are a relatively inactive species, they do not need excessive amounts of food, which will lead to “fat rolls” and obesity.*
Common Issues Associated with keeping Ball Pythons:
Stuck on eye caps: For some reason this species more than any other I have kept tends to keep and eye cap here and there when shedding. I have had them shed off all in one piece and still manage to keep one of their eye caps on. At any rate it should be kept and eye on and when noticed taken care of. Place the snake in a container of room temperature water for about 2 hours (covered) use a piece of scotch tape rolled around your finger sticky side out, press the tape onto the effected eye and roll off, sounds easier than it is, you may have to restrain the snake behind the head to do this they probably won’t sit still for it, though if you are sneaky enough sometimes you can snag it while they crawling through your fingers.
My snake was eating great and then stopped, what’s up with that?
Chances are you’ve got a snake that has reached sexual maturity and hit the “breeding cycle rut” as I like to call it. Males show this more than females usually but it does happen in both sexes. Until recently I always just waited them out sometimes for months, I have one male that goes “off feed” like clockwork for about 4 months out of the year every year. Usually it’s just a battle of wills; try a feed here and there until they snap out of it. However recently after talking with a good friend of mine I was told a trick that could work in breaking them out of the cycle quicker. Turn belly heat source of and lower the cage temp to 78-80 degrees for 2 weeks. After the 2 week period turn the heat back up to normal operating temps. And I’ll be jiggered if that guy popped the first medium rat that I threw his way! I also have a buddy in CT that was having the same issue with one of his and he tried the trick and had the same fantastic results. So hey if you run into this problem I would say give it shot! It sure as hell seems to work.
I do hope you enjoyed this article. This is by no means a complete account on the species just some little tips, pointers and observations on the species.
Thank you much,
Brad
~2007
One of the 1st exotic species I started out with so many years ago. Ball pythons in general are a small and fairly easily kept species. One of the plusses of this species is the fact they stay relatively small averaging between the 4 to 6 foot range (Females being the larger of the 2 in general).
Due to their small size this species is pretty easy to house. An enclosure of 36”x18”x18” would be what I consider a minimum size required for an adult ball python. They are a largely terrestrial species so floor surface area is of greater importance than enclosure height. Hatchlings and Yearlings are easily housed in enclosures the size or a 10 or 20 long aquarium.
Temperatures and Humidity:
Especially when young this species will require an ambient cage temperature in the mid 80s I usually shoot for 82 to 84 degrees F. They also require a basking area of 90 degrees not to exceed 95 degrees F. The basking area can be accomplished by and overhead heat source outfitted with an infrared bulb, or ceramic heat emitter, or by a UTH (Under Tank Heat-pad). Other heat sources are also available these are just some of the more common ones. The key is the range of heat needed, as long as you hit the already mentioned temps. It doesn’t matter how you do it (though I would stay away from daylight incandescent bulbs).
Humidity: Average humidity for this species is around 50 to 60% for normal everyday levels. Increased humidity during the shedding cycle of 70% to 80% is acceptable and sometimes needed in order to get them to shed off in one piece. I humidity box can be provided for persistent poor shedders, this can be as simple as a Tupperware container filled with damp moss or paper towels with hole cut in the side or top. Zoo Med does make a ready made humidity hide hut.
Feeding:
Ball Pythons can be picky eaters, a lot of which it depends a lot on the origin of the snake. Captive Bred (C.B) Balls usually present few issues with feeding, were as Imports (W.C) or Bush Babies and even Farm Hatched Imports can be extremely difficult to keep on a regular feeding schedule (note: I did say “can be” a lot of times there aren’t problems getting those to eat either). Below are some tricks to getting Ball Pythons feeding.
Tease Feeding: Using a Frozen Thawed (F/T) prey item warm slightly in hot water (place the mouse in a plastic bag, then float the bag in the water for a couple minuets.) Use a long tweezers or hemostats to jiggle the prey item in front of the python as if it were alive. Normally you will see what looks like some head bobbing from side to side, this is the python lining up a bead on the prey item before the strike. Balls sense prey by heat signature (the reason for warming the prey item). This method is usually very effective in getting Balls to eat.
In a bag: Placing the python in a bag or dark container overnight with the prey item. This can be used with F/T prey (preferred) or Live prey HOWEVER if using live prey make sure they are only pinky rats or hopper mice with NO teeth! If you use a rodent with teeth it is a good chance you check on your snake in the morning and find it has been chewed up.
Live Prey: Sometimes Ball Pythons will only take live prey, not only that but they may be prey specific only eating Mice or Rats or Gerbils or Hamsters. I had a Ball once that would only eat live Gerbils for the whole 9+ years I had him, no amount of scenting on dead or live prey changed his mind….if it wasn’t a live gerbil it wasn’t food. Gerbils are often a good means to end with balls they do seem to have a taste for them, however once “on” them they can be difficult to get switched over to anything else.
*Prey items should be no larger than the thickest part of the snakes body* These snakes are a relatively inactive species, they do not need excessive amounts of food, which will lead to “fat rolls” and obesity.*
Common Issues Associated with keeping Ball Pythons:
Stuck on eye caps: For some reason this species more than any other I have kept tends to keep and eye cap here and there when shedding. I have had them shed off all in one piece and still manage to keep one of their eye caps on. At any rate it should be kept and eye on and when noticed taken care of. Place the snake in a container of room temperature water for about 2 hours (covered) use a piece of scotch tape rolled around your finger sticky side out, press the tape onto the effected eye and roll off, sounds easier than it is, you may have to restrain the snake behind the head to do this they probably won’t sit still for it, though if you are sneaky enough sometimes you can snag it while they crawling through your fingers.
My snake was eating great and then stopped, what’s up with that?
Chances are you’ve got a snake that has reached sexual maturity and hit the “breeding cycle rut” as I like to call it. Males show this more than females usually but it does happen in both sexes. Until recently I always just waited them out sometimes for months, I have one male that goes “off feed” like clockwork for about 4 months out of the year every year. Usually it’s just a battle of wills; try a feed here and there until they snap out of it. However recently after talking with a good friend of mine I was told a trick that could work in breaking them out of the cycle quicker. Turn belly heat source of and lower the cage temp to 78-80 degrees for 2 weeks. After the 2 week period turn the heat back up to normal operating temps. And I’ll be jiggered if that guy popped the first medium rat that I threw his way! I also have a buddy in CT that was having the same issue with one of his and he tried the trick and had the same fantastic results. So hey if you run into this problem I would say give it shot! It sure as hell seems to work.
I do hope you enjoyed this article. This is by no means a complete account on the species just some little tips, pointers and observations on the species.
Thank you much,
Brad
~2007